Making the Jacket: Design Two

Please see images below of the draping and making of the jacket:

I found the draping of this really challenging. As I had not done anything like this before I honestly didn't have a clue where to start with the skirt of the jacket, as I wanted much volume in small panels of the body.  I started with the jacket front until I could get some help of a tutor. Because after trying a few things I still didn't really know where to go with the skirt. 

First I began to create box pleats at the back but my tutor advised that I should do small neat knife pleats instead and that he thinks it would look more elegant.

After creating the knife pleats it was suggested that maybe I should make them so that they touch more rather than spreading out.

I am really happy with the way that the skirt drapes now. 

If you would like to see the pattern I made for this then please see my work book.

Fabric Sourcing

I went around London looking for potential fabrics that could be used for both design one and design two. I found a lot of different varieties and colours for the top fabric for design two. I chose some black, red and gold/brown silks for potential fabrics for the jacket and the skirt. The choice would then be left to the designer as to which he prefers. 

I also found lots of different samples for the black muslin that could be used for the blouse and the black velvet that would be used for the lapels and cuffs. I decided to by some of this to use within my toile to create the look with different weights of fabric. 

However, I had great trouble looking for a silk and cashmere blend fabric. Every shop I went into looked at me like i was mad! I did find some samples of different potential fabrics that could be similar to the colour description but does not have the fibre content required. 

I wrote to the museum where design ones original dress is but unfortunately they refused to give me any images of the garment. This did not help me with looking for fabrics.

I did however find some great samples for cottons both plain and glazed for the lining of design one as well as some gorgeous lace that could be added to the chemise underneath the dress. 

Please see my work book for all the samples found in London.

Maidstone Museum and Bentlif Art Gallery

While away on Easter break I visited the Maidstone Museum and Bentlif Art Gallery to  look though there costume collection. 

I really enjoyed this visit but however did not learn much as the notes with the costumes were not very detailed and there was no-one in charge of the costume around that day to talk to. But however it was very interesting seeing some more different garments from all periods of the 19th Century.

Please see below for images taken at the museum:

I was interested by this wedding dress as it is very similar to  the ideas that I had for the back of my second design and it was really nice to see this in 3D rather than 2D in a book.

I was interested by this image of a mock up corset. I was aware that makes often created small samples of there dresses so that the customer might know what they are buying but I did not realise that they also did this for corsets.

Making the Blouse and Skirt: Design Two

Please see images below of the making of the blouse and skirt:

When I cut the skirt out as a whole and fitting it back on the mannequin for some reason it was not as tight fitting as originally this meant that I needed to change the darts and take in the skirt down the side front seam (The alterations can be seen in later images). I did not understand what had happened there but made the necessary alterations so the costume is very fitted.

 The image before and this image show the changes made to the skirt when refitted.

Cartridge Pleat Skirt: Design One

Using the pattern as a guide I worked out how much more my pattern will need to be to go around part of the bodice. I then first did a sample cartridge piece.

Upon pinning this to the bodice hem i noticed that the curve on the pattern did not go on long enough to incorporate the point of the bodice. I therefore marked where the curve needs to stop on the skirt. 

I have also decided to place a seam down the centre of a cartridge pleat to create a longer skirt.