Draping the Blouse: Design Two

I decided to start by draping the skirt of the costume.


I used many images and patterns from Waugh, N. (1994) and Hunnisett, J. (1988) to create my own pattern for the skirt. I decided to drape the skirt with a front panel and a back panel that goes from the centre back to the side front. I placed two darts at the hip to create a nice smooth shape. I then created box pleats at the back of the skirt. 

I then started draping the blouse of the costume.

I started by draping a base of the blouse with a light weight pre washed calico. Placing darts down the front to keep it very fitted even though he top layer will not be fitted.

The pattern for this can be found in my work book.

Please see images below of draping the blouse:

I then started playing with the draping at the front of the blouse. First trying different pleating techniques.

 I then created a diagonal box pleat to create this detail at the centre front seen on the design. 

However I did not feel the pleats were working for this costume and decided to give gathering a try.

 I feel that this pleat is really effective once neatened up to create the detail seen on the design.

 I think that the draping looks much better.

However after looking at the blouse at this angle I have decided that i want the length of the muslin to be much longer so that when gathered up into he blouse hem the stomach sticks out a lot more.

Here you can see the bottom layer of the blouse, this will be covered with a layer of muslin to the same pattern. 

For patterns of both the blouse and skirt please see my work book.